The Coziest (and Ugliest) Towns in France, As Seen by Our Expert

About 35 years of journeying back and forth France Has imparted some wisdom upon me: there’s merely a fifty-fifty shot at getting your ticket inspected aboard the TGV; youthful French motorists pose the greatest risk; and should you decide to dine at a motorway rest stop, opting for today’s hot special would be preferable.

The key takeaway is that France shines brightest when explored through its smaller towns. While large urban centers boast vibrant atmospheres filled with museums, cathedrals, and specialized macaron shops, they can also be quite overwhelming. They're wonderful places to see but equally appealing as destinations from which you might want respite. French villages rightfully earn acclaim for their local artisans like bakers and butchers, yet these quaint locales often close up shop early around 7:30 pm.

By contrast, the small town — ranging roughly from about 10,000 to approximately 50,000 people — will provide sustenance and refreshments starting at 10 pm along with various activities to enjoy, all without becoming too crowded. The residents tend to get accustomed to visitors and generally have a friendly demeanor. If someone accidentally bumps into you on the sidewalk, they'll likely apologize for it.

My list of favorite small towns—especially those deemed the most appealing—is always changing. When I say "most appealing," I'm not referring strictly to their visual charm. Solely being pretty can lead to problems; for instance, attracting too many potters and ceramists instead of needed grocers. A truly appealing small town should possess distinctiveness, interesting tales, and an air of self-sufficiency regardless of tourist presence.

These are my current favorites.

10. St Omer, Pas-de-Calais

Population: 14,661

Recently, Saint-Omer has faced significant challenges—flooding during the past winter and a fire at the Church of the Immaculate Conception back in September—that make this location worthy of attention. Thankfully, offering support here is quite straightforward due to several factors. First off, it’s a quaint town with great dignity. Witness the majestic remains of the St Bertin Abbey or the impressive tiered facade of what was once the Jesuit College. Adjacent stands another striking edifice from the 16th century; it functioned as the English Jesuit College where Catholic boys were educated when they couldn’t attend school elsewhere.

These days, it still houses a school – the Lycée Alexandre Ribot – but also the extraordinarily dignified public library, whose abundant treasures include copies of the Gutenberg Bible and Shakespeare’s First Folio.

This suggests that St Omer also boasts significant cultural assets. The Sandelin Museum currently focuses heavily on Japanese themes, the Italian theater is as elaborately decorated as any true Italophile would desire, and the cathedral presents an impressive display. Deposition By Rubens. Additionally, it features a 16th-century astrolabe clock. The site also houses the tomb of Saint Erkembode, an eighth-century Irish bishop of the region, known for traversing his diocese so extensively that he eventually became nearly paralyzed from overuse. Consequently, he was venerated by parents whose children struggled with mobility issues. As such, his tomb is adorned with small shoes—symbols of hope or gratitude for his assistance.

Thirdly, St Omer boasts exceptional cuisine. You should try beef carbonnade or a dish with three or four types of meat. potjevleesch When it comes to chip shipment volumes, you’ve come to the right spot. The nearby brews surely lend a hand. Be sure to sample some from the Abbaye de Clairmarais brewery.

To stay

Aim for what is reliable and located centrally. Mercure Saint Omer (doubles from £82).

9. St Malo, Brittany

Population: 48,233

Saint-Malo was named after a Welsh saint, Maclou. The port accumulated vast wealth mainly from trading activities with the Indies and the Americas, as well as extensive privateering, largely at the expense of English interests—consistent with its Welsh roots. Even King Louis XIV sought financial assistance from the city due to this prosperity.

We took our vengeance when the Allied bombing devastated the area in 1944 (as mentioned in Anthony Doerr’s Pulitzer-winning). Every Beam of Darkness We Can't See It paints the picture. However, what sets this place apart is how the granite city has been reconstructed inside its fortifications with remarkable flair. Stroll along the 1.2-mile-long walls and observe the intricate maze of hewn stone, which speaks volumes about the ancestral might, riches, and cunning. Overlooking everything stands the massive castle, which currently houses an excellent regional history museum.

On the far side lies an expanse of ocean visible from three directions, featuring beautiful beaches populated with sand yachts and scattered rocky islets seemingly dropped haphazardly. One such islet hosts Fort National, while another is home to the gravesite of the renowned local author Châteaubriand.

When you return to this place, you'll find plenty of bars and eateries equipped to satisfy everyone’s social desires, particularly for those who crave seafood. The next time you disembark from the ferry here, consider staying rather than rushing elsewhere. Trust me; you won’t regret it.

To stay

The Quic en Groigne It’s a cozy, perfectly situated three-star hotel with very inviting doubles starting at £72.

8. Amboise, Loire Valley

Population: 12,938

Perched high above the vast, turbulent, meandering Loire River, Amboise Castle instills in every visitor—be they monarchs or ordinary travelers—an ambition for dominion. Spending time within these walls makes one feel destined to rule, perhaps even France itself. Several kings named Louis, along with pairs of Charles and two Françoises, set this precedent as they came and went from Amboise, sometimes departing to conquer Italy and usher in the Renaissance era upon their return.

Francois I welcomed Leonardo da Vinci back – Leonardo made the journey riding on a donkey, with the Mona Lisa In a saddlebag—and set him up in a different part of town at the Clos Lucé manor house. The brick-built mansion and its grounds are now filled with reminders of his pioneering inventions from centuries ago. Though he was an advocate for weapons of mass destruction like tanks and machine guns, he also envisioned flying machines, parachutes, the gear shift mechanism, and even the car jack, amongst many others.

If you find yourself exploring this quaint oatmeal-colored town, suffused in mellow lighting and mirrored elegance, which feels both regal and aquatic, you'll discover that the ancient cobblestone pathways are vibrant with opportunities for shopping and dining. If your schedule allows a journey aboard a classic river cruiser, seize the chance without delay—it promises to be soothing, peaceful, and enlightening. I recommend visiting Millière Raboton right next to the riverside in Chaumont; their website is milliere-raboton.net.

To stay

The manorial Clos d’Amboise serves as excellent preparation for the grandiose structures you will be exploring (double rooms starting at £95).

7. Beaune, Burgundy

Population: 20,032

Beaune is rich with historical abundance, situated at the southern tip of both the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune — collectively home to some of the finest wine-growing hillsides in all of Europe. The well-seasoned, whitewashed lanes provide ample chances for dining delights. jambon persillé , Chaource cheese and beef Bourguignon is so delightful that even a strong-willed man cannot resist for long.

Abundant well-being flourishes here, and appropriately enough, Burgundy’s wine hub stands atop an extensive network of underground cellars where millions of bottles lie aging. Stop by Bouchard Ainé et Fils to observe this process firsthand and sample the outcomes. The comprehensive narrative encompassing the terroir, individuals, and vintages unfolds within the newly inaugurated Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne. This strikingly cylindrical structure appears as though it is coiling around itself. Within, visitors can explore exhibits detailing how these elements intertwine inside the center. climats These are known as specific vineyard plots among the Burgundians — and proceeds to narrate the complete story in a modern context.

Next, you should visit the Hospital of Hotel Dieu from the 15th century. This sprawling institution was constructed for impoverished individuals with architectural grandeur akin to a Flemish cathedral, serving almost as an enormous monument intended by a wealthy sinner to secure their place in heaven. Encircling a central courtyard, this complex stands out not only architecturally but also through its remarkable craftsmanship and intricate details—no less impressive than those found in any renowned healthcare facility globally. Its multi-colored roof featuring geometric patterns undoubtedly ranks among the most striking rooftops in all of France. Inside, visitors can admire Rogier van der Weyden’s work. Last Judgment A polyptych likely offered insufficient comfort for the patients' needs. Guests will also notice enema syringes as large as fuel pumps, suggesting that the so-called golden era had its drawbacks.

To stay

The voco Beaune It appears (and indeed is) as good as new, close to the recently opened Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne; room rates start at £87 for double occupancy).

6. Bergerac, Dordogne

Population: 25,774

Bergerac cannot be separated from earthly delights, nor would you really want to. To begin with, this town in the Dordogne region boasts France’s sole tobacco museum. The exhibits detail not just the cultivation of weeds in the Dordogne area but span the complete 3,000-year saga of tobacco. Here you will discover various facts, such as how smokers under Tsarist rule in Russia had their lips severed; those in Persia faced having their noses removed; and individuals caught smoking in China were decapitated.

Secondly, serving as a hub for southwest wines, the location boasts a trendy new Maison des Vins. This wine bar occupies an ancient 17th-century structure once part of a Franciscan Recollects monastery, offering views over the river. Enjoying glasses of Bergerac wine while conversing with friends on the riverside terrace can transform even the most laid-back individuals into paragons of civility. Furthermore, the bounty of southwestern France’s agricultural produce—foie gras, duck confit, various truffle dishes—floods into local markets and eateries from the nearby Dordogne region. My favorite preparation of duck comes courtesy of Chef Klo. L’Authentik — crispy duck meatballs served with spiced gravy).

In Bergerac, the winding lanes are so narrow they can barely accommodate two plump friars side by side; the crooked timber-framed buildings and Renaissance-style mansions cascade down towards the Dordogne River. This river served as the conduit through which Bergerac’s wines were transported to global markets.

To stay

The Hotel de Bordeaux The eldest establishment in town offers functionality along with unexpected gardens and exceedingly agreeable personnel (double rooms starting at £57).

5. Annecy, Haute-Savoie, Alps

Population: 49,232

The perception people have of Annecy remains one of a place far too charming for mere postcards. And they're absolutely correct about this. It offers a captivating blend of canals, covered walkways, and flower-adorned bridges, complemented by expansive lawns and a stunning lake at the forefront, surrounded entirely by the Alps. You’ll find the castle, which was formerly home to the Count of Geneva, along with the grand Imperial Palace Hotel, where notable figures such as King George VI, Winston Churchill, and Charlie Chaplin were guests. Indeed, lakes, mountains, and ancient stoned towns create quite a harmonious picture when combined.

On the contrary, what sticks with me from my time in Annecy is the basilica perched atop the town. Inside a copper container rests Saint François de Sales, who serves as the patron saint for journalists. Additionally, I remember the challenge of navigating an RV—basically, a rolling house—through cobblestone lanes built for donkeys.

Moreover, most crucially – I made sure that regardless of what goes on in Annecy, you can find tartiflette at almost every turn. This single aspect deems the town worthy of Premier League status.

To stay

Just five minutes away from the lake and conveniently located near the city center, this place is ideal. Allobroges Park Hotel It serves as an adequate base in Annecy with doubles starting at £67.

4. Mende, Lozère, Occitanie

Population: 12,316

I was captivated by Mende soon after being drawn to one of its younger female residents. Initially, we explored the evocative landscapes of France’s least populated region: an elevated, rugged, isolated area featuring both a wolf sanctuary and my prospective mother-in-law, though overall quite accommodating. Later, we descended into Mende, a compact prefectural city. This resilient gray town nestles alongside the Lot River and clusters around a colossal Gothic cathedral (commissioned by native son Pope Urban V). It towers over the surroundings much like a cardinal would stand out among lesser clergy members.

Narrow streets bustle with rosy-cheeked locals coming down from their mountain hamlets for the weekly market, shopping trips, administrative tasks, school activities, sports events, and encounters with friends who aren’t family members. Recently observed, Mende was always known as a rugged city focused on necessities; however, over the last two decades, it has transformed into a more open and vibrant place. Stores and public spaces now have an updated appearance fitting for modern times, and the Hyper U supermarket boasts one of the most impressively arranged cheese sections among those I've seen, along with a commendable selection of cured meats too.

Events progress, yet the echoes of the past persist, particularly noticeable from atop the highest hill overlooking the town. Atop this prominence stands the hermitage dedicated to Saint Privat, a martyr who met his end when he was pushed off the cliff inside a barrel studded with spikes by marauding invaders led by someone named Crocus. To put it simply, one would be wise to approach the site with reverence.

To stay

Make directly for the Hôtel de France Its 21st-century comforts nestled within an 18th-century townhouse (double rooms start at £99).

3. Hyères, Var, Provence

Population: 55,370

Whenever possible, I have lunch at a seaside eatery located just beyond Hyères. My choice is always John Dory accompanied by a bottle of rosé. Under skies washed with the soft, seasonally muted yet crystal-clear light, the sandy shores gently meet the ocean waters. Once finished eating, I inquire whether I could stay to savor my final glass of wine — perhaps even until well into the future, say, about 25 more years?

The coastline of the Var department in Provence fills one with joy. The mountains meet the Mediterranean Sea in a dramatic display of rugged cliffs and dense forests, occasionally offering secluded coves and sandy shores. Hyères stands out as the ideal starting point. It boasts an abundance of palm trees, which never fails to lift spirits. Ascending sharply above itself, the labyrinthine network of ancient alleyways embodies the spirited essence of a typical Provençal town.

The resort was the pioneer in France when it came to attracting high-end international tourists—predating destinations like Nice, Cannes, or Biarritz. Wealthy aristocrats from colder regions began flocking here during the latter part of the 18th century primarily for the benefit of their health due to the milder winters.

Queen Victoria, an admirer, set off a trend among high society Britons who found it delightful. Their demands included golf courses, tennis courts, tea rooms, libraries, and even three Anglican churches, along with British medical professionals like doctors, dentists, and pharmacists. The artistic community thrived here too; figures such as Huxley, Kipling, Conrad, particularly Edith Wharton, frequented this place. In the 1920s and '30s, others would congregate at the Villa Noailles, which was known for its avant-garde design featuring stark white cubist structures perched atop the hill. Visitors today can go there to honor artists including Klee, Cocteau, Braque, Dali, and Buñuel.

To stay

Make your way to the boutique (which has 14 rooms). Hôtel Le Méditerranée , close to the harbor. It serves its purpose effectively ( priced at £70 onwards ).

2. Figeac, Lot, Occitanie

Population: 9,741

For centuries, travelers traversing the Quercy limestone plateau have made their way down to the Célé River and crossed over to Figeac. This practice continues today, enhanced by recent appreciation. It nearly didn’t survive; during the 1950s—when irrational urban development ideas prevailed—the historic heart of the town faced demolition to accommodate automobiles. However, at the critical juncture, France embraced cultural preservation. Instead of being razed, these architectural treasures reflecting daily life from medieval trade times through the Renaissance period were restored and preserved.

Individuals returned to the historic district. Revival took place. Consequently, one can now meander through the narrow lanes and cobblestone pathways, past limestone storefront facades, exposed upper rooms, and hidden spots where cats might hide, all accompanied by the unsteady playing of a flute heard from an open 17th-century window. Additionally, citizens exchange greetings as they make their way toward the bustling Place Carnot market.

Just beside it, Figeac's most distinguished native son, Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion—the decipherer of hieroglyphs—has lent his legacy to an excellent museum dedicated to the evolution of writing, starting with cuneiform scripts. Close by, a replica made of black granite of the Rosetta Stone adorns a modest inner courtyard.

To stay

Try the Hôtel Le Quatorze – petite, independently owned, delightful, and great value for money (rooms start at £64).

1. Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Basque Country, Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Population: 14,601

Many years ago, Saint-Jean — favored by intellectuals as the most refined coastal town along the French Atlantic coast—prospered through activities like whale hunting, cod fishing, and dispatching privateers to disrupt British maritime trade. Later on, though, it shifted towards more leisurely pursuits without losing touch with its seafaring roots. Today, you can still see activity at the bustling fishing harbor where vessels unload their catches rather than bringing in tycoons. Further ahead, the sweeping arc of the Grand Beach lives up to all expectations for safety and summertime enjoyment. In another area, waves toss around surf enthusiasts, making the nearby waters seem tame compared to what one might find further south resembling something closer to an idyllic yet indulgent experience akin to those found near the Mediterranean.

However, the town also boasts an underlying resilience. The pedestrian streets are lined with essential shops amidst grandiose white residences that have been home to successive generations. It's unmistakable who calls this place home; it certainly isn’t the tourists. Among these guests were historical figures like Louis XIV, who visited in 1660 for his marriage to Princess María Teresa at the Church of Saint John the Baptist—this church remains largely unchanged since then, located at 11 Rue de l'Eglise. During the Belle Époque era, esteemed nobility flocked to the Basque coastline, making it a prime destination. Subsequently, composer Maurice Ravel created some of his finest works here. Bolero over across in Ciboure.

Elegant reverberations linger, adding a luster to what the Basques excel at: savoring meals, staying up late for drinks, discussing tuna and rugby, placing bets on pelota, adorning themselves with berets, crafting cheeses and hams, and nurturing familial bonds that span across continents. Many Basque families can trace their lineage back to having a Latin American president somewhere within them.

To stay

Once an icon of Saint Jean, the Madison hotel reemerged in 2018 and remains as sophisticated and inviting as ever (rooms start at £123).

Five not-so-lovely towns

Understand this: just because a location isn't picturesque, it doesn't imply that it lacks interest or shouldn't be explored. Quite often, the contrary holds. My hometown is in industrial Lancashire, so I can attest to this fact. It simply indicates that the postcards may not be as enticing—does anyone truly care about that?

5. Narbonne Plage

The Languedoc coastline entered the tourism industry relatively later compared to regions like Provence’s coast and the French Riviera. As a result, places such as Narbonne Plage often exhibit a hastily developed 1960s aesthetic. The area features apartment complexes lacking grand architectural appeal alongside makeshift structures and commercial buildings ("chicken nuggets!", "meter-long pizzas,", "fashion fusion!") characterized by their transient permanency. To be honest, Narbonne Plage makes an excellent destination for a family vacation, yet one wouldn’t call it charming or picturesque.

4. Alès

Another location that hasn’t fully bounced back from the decline of coal mining wealth. Similar to Decazeville, you find yourself in Alès amidst very pastoral landscapes—often referred to as the "capital of the Cévennes mountains." However, urban renewal efforts haven't been particularly kind to it. While worth seeing, I doubt visitors will be eager to linger here.

3. Decazeville

The Aveyron is charmingly rustic, except for Decazeville, which historically benefited from being situated above a valuable coal deposit but later faced misfortune when the resource became depleted. As a result, the town appears somewhat disoriented, as though it hasn’t fully bounced back from the financial setback.

2. Dunkirk

This significant maritime hub boasts an extensive coastline and a storied past — these elements are naturally intertwined; however, following wartime destruction, the city has undergone reconstruction with some hesitation. Moreover, the abundance of industrial activity such as steel production, petroleum refining, and power generation at its outskirts does not enhance its aesthetic appeal.

1. Fos-sur-Mer

Located on the Mediterranean Sea northwest of Marseille, you might expect it to be charming. However, this isn’t quite true. The historic village is practically overshadowed by one of Europe’s largest industrial areas – complete with refineries and steel mills. These structures lack aesthetic appeal and can emit unpleasant odors, particularly on days when the wind isn’t favorable.

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