I Savored Michelin-Starred Delights in Japan — But It's the Egg Mayo Sandwiches That Stuck With Me

Encased in an elegant, multi-layered black box adorned with a ribbon, my initial dining experience commenced. Japan showed up in grand fashion. Yet, when I opened the compartments filled with meticulously cooked dishes, it turned out just as I had anticipated: an abundance of uncooked seafood. Plus, well...other items, including some that were yellow and gelatinous. My neighbor chimed in enthusiastically: "This is precisely what I was hoping for—a genuine Japanese morning meal."

I didn’t say "this is precisely what I dreaded," but those were my exact thoughts. My knowledge of Japanese cuisine could fit on the back of an Itsu receipt, but here I am, willing to try it out.

I traveled from Tokyo to Fukuoka, which is the sixth-biggest city in Japan. Located on Kyushu—the country’s third-largest and southernmost island—Fukuoka is increasingly known for its food scene.

The trip had been extensive, and despite having an excellent accommodation at the Ritz Carlton, I found myself puzzled by certain features. The bathroom comprised two nested glass enclosures that were entirely enclosed. Although the aesthetics were impressive, it took me some time to understand how to access them properly.

Before having breakfast, the sole items I had consumed since arriving were some sizable strawberries placed in my room. Cultivated locally, these berries could have competed with the best ones from Kent.

Fukuoka, translating to "lucky peaks," does not typically feature in the standard Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka itinerary. Nonetheless, it frequently ranks among the top locations for quality of life within Japan.

A few days into my stay, I started understanding the appeal. Unlike sprawling Tokyo, this place is very pedestrian-friendly with welcoming locals, as well as accessible beaches and ample green areas. The area boasts numerous small bars along with impressive contemporary buildings, complemented by a museum housing an array of Buddhist sculptures alongside works by Miró and Dalí.

And when it comes to the cuisine, during my initial night there, I had dinner at Yamaya Sohonten Zen In the Shirokane district of the city, there's a glass-enclosed eatery overseen by Zaiyu Hasegawa, an influential proponent of modern Japanese gastronomy who aims to showcase Kyushi's culinary heritage. Chef Abe Daishero led the kitchen here, and every presentation was visually stunning—though some dishes were somewhat perplexing. For instance, a smiling face carved from a minuscule slice of carrot caught my eye. Among them all, the clay pot rice stood out as particularly beautiful, with each grain shimmering like precious stones; however, my personal favorite was a type of dismantled mackerel sushi served alongside fried lotus root.

It was entirely a sharp contrast compared to Yoruzu In the Akasaka district of the city, there’s a place known for serving both tea and sake where I went specifically to try their combinations of various teas with wagashi (traditional Japanese confections). Inside a compact, dimly lit Zen-themed room, the menu showcased a subtle yet engaging act performed by the proprietor, Suguru Tokubushi. He skillfully brews his teas at varying temperatures using an innovative kettle design, offering guests something akin to a contemporary version of the traditional tea ritual. Meanwhile, his staff members move about dressed uniformly in pristine white lab coats, adding an element of peculiarity to the experience. Although I found the intensely flavored tea somewhat unpalatable—perhaps comparable to how one might perceive distinct coffee roast levels—I truly enjoyed interacting with Mr. Tokubushi during my visit.

He passed me a bowl aged 400 years and instructed me to keep the ornament facing outward; he noted that the bowl intentionally possessed an imperfection, just like every creation. This revealed an inherent philosophical approach. The moment echoed Leonard Cohen’s verse: "There is a crack in everything, that’s how the light gets in." The entire scenario conveyed profound emotion through meticulous attention. Tokobushi chuckled when I genuinely enjoyed a piece of smoked radish he offered, claiming it suggested I am a woman fond of “strong spirits,” which seemed rather insightful—perhaps even clairvoyant?

The next day, I paid my respects and made a wish at the nearby Jotenji temple by the Mikasa River, which has an absurdly whimsical entryway featuring a large pink smiley face. However, primarily I hoped that my queasy stomach would settle down.

My subsequent meal was lunch at Sushi Gyoten It’s a small establishment capable of accommodating only roughly eight guests simultaneously, who all sit together at one table as Kenji Gyoten performs his culinary wizardry right before their eyes. No surprise then that he boasts three Michelin stars.

When he gently laid a large live Dungeness crab onto the countertop, I couldn’t help but feel mesmerized by what seemed like witnessing a virtuoso performance. Following up, he added a chunk of tuna comparable in size to half a cow carcass, elaborating on various ways one could slice it. Eagerly, I sampled his velvety pufferfish knowing well they might carry toxins; however, my trust in him assured me safety from harm’s way. This entire affair transcended mere sustenance due to his artistic prowess—each roll emerged spontaneously under his deft hands influenced equally by fresh provisions and immediate audience reaction. Undeniably, such gastronomic indulgence elevated dinner into something sublime and unforgettable.

All things considered, the spot where I truly savored my meals the most were the yatai (portable food carts) for which Fukuoka is renowned. Each evening, these temporary setups appear along the Naka River as daytime structures disappear; they consist of plastic-covered booths where you sit shoulder-to-shoulder on benches. Here, cooks prepare delicate gyoza and pork yakitori right before your eyes, or serve steaming bowls of ramen. Patrons enjoy highballs, and the entire ambiance exudes warmth and unpretentiousness.

This applied equally well to Librun Craft Sake Brewery , which seemed trendy and enjoyable: sake here comes in various flavors, including an unpleasant chocolate variety that the owner created for Valentine’s Day (my favorite was the verbena option).

Following all that eating and drinking, I felt like refreshing myself differently. So, I headed to an onsen located within the Miyako Hotel Hakata where I had recently relocated near Hakata Station. The hot springs were supplied with water from natural thermal sources. There was some commotion due to the tattoo on my back, but they managed to find a bandage to conceal it. Trying hard not to gaze at the Japanese women who were all nude as they washed themselves, I joined them.

Each young woman I encountered in Fukuoka mentioned they had no plans for marriage. Japan faces an aging population issue (though I couldn’t help noticing the excellent skin of the older women).

Anthony Bourdain commonly advised against dining at hotels and recommended heading wherever the locals ate instead. Sometime later, I stumbled upon a lively place inside the primary railway station where numerous groups were gathered in celebration, all savoring fried chicken. It proved to be the finest fried chicken I've ever tasted—even considering my time spent living in Louisiana. The dish bore a distinct Korean touch; each bite offered perfect crispiness as the karaage-style chicken undergoes double frying following marinade.

As I departed via the bullet train, I realized that my experience was dominated by exquisite Michelin-starred cuisine. However, what truly stuck with me were the yatai street stalls and an egg mayonnaise sandwich from a 7/11 that I devoured during a televised sumo match. Have I mentioned those yet? They were divine.

Essentials

Getting there

Suzanne traveled as a guest of Fukuoka City. For additional details, refer to. gofukuoka She traveled with Etihad from Heathrow to Tokyo and continued her journey with Jetstar to Fukuoka. Several non-stop flights operate each day between Tokyo and Fukuoka; alternatively, one can take a five-hour train ride using the Shinkansen.

Staying there

Ritz Carlton At Fukuoka Daimyo Garden City 2-6-50, located in Daimyo, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka, you can get double rooms for £545 per night, with breakfast not included.

With the Style In Hakata Ward at 1 Chome-9-18 Hakataekiminami, Fukuoka, rooms start at £227 per night for double occupancy without meals included.

Miyako Hotel Hakata At 2 Chome-1-1 Hakata Ekihigashi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka, you can get rooms for two starting at £197 per night without meals included.

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