How We Crafted the Ultimate Hawaiian Getaway: Balancing Bliss and Thrills on Family Vacation

The Big Island of Hawaii is more untamed and rough compared to its neighboring islands, making it perfect for an exciting family adventure.

Starting from New York City, the journey to Hawaii spans 11 hours. These lengthy daytime hours saw my children, aged seven and ten, bickering non-stop over various things like seat positions, treats, blankets, and headphones; they even argued about who was the first to touch each other’s feet with their toes across the armrest. At times, both me and my spouse, Dave, began contemplating whether we were cursed by an evil deity destined to spend eternity aboard that Airbus A330, murmuring "give it back." right now, and glancing at the time left on our seat-back screens for what feels like the ten thousandth time.

In less than two days since arriving in Hawaii, our experience took a new turn – one with a notably more cooperative atmosphere. The four of us set off into the waters just offshore from Mauna Lani, a resort located here. Hawaii Island The area's rugged Kohala Coast was our setting. Due to jet lag, we found ourselves awake long before dawn, so we decided to join an early morning paddling session in an outrigger canoe with Josiah Kalima-Padillio, one of the resort staff members.

"It's crucial that we all paddle together," he yelled over his shoulder as we maneuvered through the channel and ventured into the open sea. "We start together, and we finish together." Sitting at the rear, I glanced up to observe Stella, our oldest child, and Leo, her younger sibling, rowing with great effort, struggling to maintain rhythm.

Just as the sun emerged above Mauna Kea—a dormant volcano approximately 30 miles from us, standing tall at nearly 14,000 feet and marking the tallest summit in Hawaii—we brought our journey to a halt. Our canoe gently swayed with each wave around this revered location. Kalima-Padillio shared how observing the sunrise has been an age-old tradition since the arrival of Polynesian settlers over a millennium ago. The site we stood upon is surrounded by what Native Hawaiians regard as their holiest peaks; hence, witnessing the first light holds profound significance for them. "Back then," he continued, "it was thought that being here would bring one nearer to deceased relatives and the spiritual realm." He further elaborated that such rituals symbolized harmony among people and offered a chance to release negative energies into the sea.

About a few hundred yards off, two humpback whales were frolicking: leaping out of the water and splashing down just like they were equally excited about the sunrise as we were.

As we all paused to catch our breath—who would have thought paddling could be so exhausting—he suddenly yelled and gestured towards the horizon. About two hundred yards off, two humpbacks were frolicking: jumping out of the water and splashing down again with an enthusiasm rivaling ours for the sunrise. Moments later, another humpback emerged barely a stone's throw away from our canoe, its massive, arched body slicing through the water akin to the overturned keel of a vessel, sleek and gleaming darkly.

When we got back to land for breakfast, we felt elated but tired and eager to lounge by the pool for the remainder of the morning. After changing into our swimwear upstairs in our room, Stella grabbed a hotel pencil lying next to the bed. Let’s all go paddling together, she read aloud from the writing on the side.

During a beach getaway, immersing yourself in the local culture isn’t always straightforward—especially when children are involved. However, at Mauna Lani, they've addressed this challenge effectively. Besides offering organized events such as sunrise canoe paddles, the property includes Kalāhuipua‘a Historical Park, an expansive 48-acre site where visitors can stroll freely without booking tickets or arranging transportation. You could essentially head over after lunch in just your swimwear and casual attire, much like our visit that day.

Ethan Souza, a vibrant staff member at Mauna Loni, guided us through the area known as Kalāhuipua‘a. He shared that this location was used by Kamehameha the Great—the Hawaiian islands' consolidator and initial monarch—to maintain several fishponds for nourishing his royal family. Currently, seven such ponds have been safeguarded within this shaded haven filled with palms. The site also features walking paths, carvings etched into rocks, and remnants from an old fishing settlement. Souza enlightened us regarding the advanced aquatic farming techniques employed by the original inhabitants of the islands and highlighted the presence of creatures like eels, barracudas, and—much to our delight—pufferfish inhabiting the ponds nowadays.

At Mauna Lani, there's an adorable Hale 'I'ike—house of knowledge—in the central atrium where children can enjoy ukulele classes and discover traditional Hawaiian star-gazing methods. We enrolled in a lei-making workshop—I must admit, I was uncertain about Leo's interest in crafting a flower necklace. To everyone’s amazement, he joined Kahoku Hurley, part of Mauna Lani’s cultural preservation group, at the lengthy wooden table and swiftly created a flawless orchid lei just as we others were still tying our initial knots.

In 2020, the Hale 'I'ike underwent a transformation when Mauna Lani relaunched as part of the Auberge Resorts Collection following a massive $200 million refurbishment. Constructed in 1983, this site evolved into an adored local icon through the years. For those who cherished the initial design, take comfort in knowing that despite hosting new additions like Goop—a retail outlet for Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle company—and amenities such as a taco truck and a New York-style delicatessen offering matcha lattes—the essence of 1980s opulence still permeates throughout the V-shaped central structure with its expansive, lushly planted atrium filled with palms.

One aspect that Auberge maintained without alteration, and rightly so, is Canoe House. Originally a hut utilized for storing canoes—some of which were even employed by Babe Ruth during his vacations here in the 1930s—the structure now serves as the home for Mauna Lani’s distinctive Japanese-themed eatery since the latter part of the '80s. This place attracts locals from Hawaii for celebrations such as birthdays, and upon our arrival at the resort on the very first evening, it became clear why this spot holds significance. The enchantment lay in watching the Pacific Ocean turn crimson as dusk settled over the horizon, savoring Kauai shrimp cooked in a flavorful Japanese curry served alongside garlic-fried rice—a dish that remains vividly remembered and often discussed among us.

Once our server removed our dishes, she inquired, "Have you visited Hawaii before?"

Sure," Leo replied nonchalantly. "We likely should have tackled this a few years back.

Many journeys to Hawaii start in Honolulu, and if you plan to spend a couple of nights in the city, staying at the Royal Hawaiian seems almost obligatory. The iconic pink Art Deco building perched above Waikiki Beach has hosted celebrities like Elvis, Marilyn Monroe, and the Beatles. This place embodies what people think of as an emblematic resort. When my partner Dave and I took our exhausting flight from New York, stepping through the lush gardens of this grand hotel immediately made us feel rejuvenated – forgetful even – as we slipped into coordinating pink robes. We let the children dive into their fun splashing session at the pool while we relaxed with some refreshing mai tai drinks served in playful plastic glasses.

Related: The Complete Hawaii Packing Checklist

Before we laid eyes on Waikiki Beach, things were quite different for us weary with winter. The sight was nearly overwhelming for our frost-bitten senses: the tranquil, sky-hugging waters of a pristine blue hue; the dazzling white sands stretching endlessly; the towering skyscrapers shimmering along the coastline; and dominating the skyline, Diamond Head—a lush green volcanic summit so vividly alive that one could easily imagine it springing forth into song, reminiscent of an enchanted scene from a Disney film. Moana.

We could have simply enjoyed the scenery for those couple of days in Honolulu, but we felt compelled to visit Pearl Harbor. It turned out to be just as impactful and significant as everyone had described, even though we went there feeling extremely tired from crossing time zones. After returning to the Royal Hawaiian, we ventured over to the nearby shopping center for some poke and shaved ice. Later that same day, with assistance from helpful staff members at reception, we arranged surf lessons for Stella and Leo. As they channeled their competitive spirit into riding the waves, I lay still on my lounge chair and exhaled slowly. Indeed, this was what being on holiday truly meant.

Hawaii is known for its volcanoes, and my children—Leo particularly—are fascinated by them. Those who frequently read this publication might recall our volcanic expedition to Pompeii, the historic Italian town razed by Mount Vesuvius, a few years back. The Big Island of Hawaii alone boasts four currently active craters within a region only slightly smaller than Connecticut. Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park In the southern part of the island lies the area with the majority of the activity, featuring Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, which are among the most actively erupting volcanoes globally. It was evident that we needed to witness this spectacle.

On Hawaii Island, there's a clear distinction between those who prefer luxurious beach resorts and those who opt for national parks. A lot of visitors lodging along the coastline might simply go on a helicopter tour of the volcanoes and consider their experience complete. In part, this makes sense: accommodation options near the park are limited, the drive takes a few hours, and the roads can be quite winding.

Related: 15 Top Activities for Families with Children in Hawaii

Volcanoes turned out to be incredibly fun, and I really enjoyed it. We lodged at the Volcano Rainforest Retreat, which consisted of traditional Japanese-style wooden cabins located roughly three miles from the park, nestled within a dense jungle filled with bamboo and ferns. This experience starkly differed from our stay at Mauna Lani.
At this retreat, the children slept on futons laid directly on the floors. During half of our visit to that area, it seemed like rain poured almost constantly; thus, we dashed outside only when brief breaks occurred to soak in the outdoor cedar bathtub surrounded by gardens. Our evening meal came courtesy of Aunty Pon’s, a food truck parked near us. Perhaps due to excitement over discovering tasty cuisine amid new surroundings, I can confidently say that her green curry and pad thai rivaled even some of Thailand's finest street foods.

The following day, we entered the park armed with two large water bottles and made provisions with two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for the children. Our expedition lacked a clear objective as we set off towards exploring the Nāhuku lava tube. Upon arrival, it became apparent that Leo anticipated finding pools of live lava inside; learning instead about how this cave formed from hardened magma after reaching scorching temperatures up to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit during past eruptions only added to his initial letdown.

To increase the thrill, we spotted a sign near the Nāhuku parking area indicating a trail looping around Kīlauea Iki, which is a pit crater adjacent to Kīlauea’s primary caldera. The path was 3.3 miles long. Were we up for the challenge?

Nah," replied Leo, "it's too distant.

"Come on Leo, it'll be an awesome experience," Stella remarked.

Dave and I exchanged glances. What did this mature young woman mean by discussing such exciting adventures? Despite her sudden appearance, we quite enjoyed her company.

"Let's go, Leo," I urged him. "We're going through with this." And so we did; he ran a total of four miles, quite remarkable for a seven-year-old who usually has an unpredictable mindset about such things.

Fairly speaking, there were indeed diversions. The pit craters can basically be described as enormous cavities in the earth’s surface; thus, we started by climbing down the interior slope, an area teeming with life—lush vegetation and towering plants reminiscent of a primeval forest, with gigantic tree ferns unfurling their fronds way overhead. Approximately thirty minutes later, we arrived at the bottom of the caldera. Dave consulted his smartphone: He informed us that back in 1959, Kīlauea Iki witnessed a prolonged eruption lasting over a month, ejecting molten rock to heights exceeding 1,900 feet—a truly remarkable display during the last century. Once this activity ceased and things settled, the cooling lava created a vast expanse of smooth, ash-like basalts stretching across 1.7 miles right in front of us. Further along, we noticed several other trekkers venturing across the same terrain—they appeared minuscule compared to the imposing vertical sides of the crater enclosing them on all fronts.

As we continued walking, a sense of awe lingered among us as we occasionally encountered massive fissures in the earth and areas where rocks were warped and bulged due to the residual warmth from the molten lava below. By the time we traversed the entire crater, scaled the opposite edge, and circled back around to Nāhuku along the rim, everyone was feeling exhilarated—sweaty, exhausted, and famished yet bonded through our collective achievement. Truly an invigorating adventure.

Following all the excitement of the theme park, it felt perfect to conclude our journey back on the beach. Early the following day, we headed down to the Kona Coast to enjoy our final days at the Kona Village resort. Having come from England, I was unaware of this location until it relaunched under the management of the Rosewood Hotels Group in 2023; however, every person in the U.S. I talked with appeared to be well aware of it, mentioning their familiarity over many years. It didn't take long for me to understand why—it turns out that within Hawaii’s tourist scene, Kona Village holds legendary status.

The tale started in 1965 when a Texas petroleum magnate called Johnno Jackson and his spouse, Helen, were cruising the South Pacific aboard their schooner known as the New Moon. The pair anchored at Ka‘upulehu, once an old Polynesian village deserted during the 1930s. The Jackson family grew fond of this location, leasing 81 acres covered in lava rocks offering sea vistas, then proceeded to develop a resort site over several years. Since there wasn’t any way to reach them by road, Jackson constructed his own runway. Telecommunications were nonexistent as well—no telephones, clocks, nor television sets; visitors stayed in traditional hales featuring grass roofs and wood shutters that could be opened to let in fresh air. This spot became synonymous with laid-back opulence, drawing many high-profile guests throughout nearly thirty years—from Jim Morrison in the '70s all the way through to Steve Jobs around the turn of the millennium.

In 2011, the Asian tsunami devastated the resort. With an ardent and deeply committed following, fans were compelled to await Kona Village's reopening for 12 lengthy years. However, it can confidently be stated that those electing to come back won’t find themselves let down. Nowadays, although the huts remain with their traditional thatched roofs, they also feature air conditioning; some even boast their very own personal butlers. New Moon, The one that submerged in Kahuwai Bay during the '60s has been brought back to life as a charming beach bar. A spa integrated within the Ka‘upulehu lava fields allows you to enjoy a massage while looking up at the slopes of Mauna Kea. This represents barefoot luxury version 2.0—laid-back and casual yet equipped with all possible amenities.

The main attraction is the pristine crescent-shaped beach at Kahuwai Bay, known as a great spot for children to try snorkeling. One day, I approached Brent Imonen, who runs the aquatics facility, to arrange equipment rental, and soon after, we dove into the waters together. Beneath the waves, the water displayed a vivid, milky-blue hue. In less than a minute, we spotted a green sea turtle mere feet from us, eyeing us somewhat haughtily through its large dark eyes before swiftly descending toward the ocean floor, flippers extended like wings, feeding on some seaweed. It was accompanied by various Finding Nemo —an eclectic burst of marine life, swimming around in all shapes, colors, and sizes: Moorish idols, yellow tangs, swarms of needlefish, and Hawaii’s tongue-twisting state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapua‘a, also known as the reef triggerfish.

“Impressive,” I remarked to Imonen when we returned our masks and snorkels after about an hour. He beamed and mentioned that a no-take zone established roughly eight years prior was now showing positive results. "The conditions below were among the finest on the island."

Approximately 100 spinner dolphins were making their way towards us; their gleaming dorsal fins were almost indistinguishable from the wave tips.

Back on solid ground, we were eager to delve deeper into the history of Ka‘upulehu. The following morning, after a breakfast that featured an exceptionally memorable dish, lilikoi kouign-amann, A dessert packed with passion-fruit custard (by the way, Kona Village boasts an outstanding pastry chef), we visited the petroglyphs etched into the lava field beneath the resort. According to information provided in a pamphlet, this basalt layer originated approximately 3,000 years ago and has been occupied for the last thousand years. Throughout the centuries, the inhabitants of Ka‘upulehu created roughly 450 designs on the stone surface, most of which guests can observe from a walkway; additionally, there’s a newly established cultural center close by offering further insights into these symbols' significance.

Look," Leo said, gesturing towards two tiny figures carved into the stone. "They're a brother and sister.

"It appears that Leo is attempting to aim for my shins with a pool noodle," Stella commented.

We all paused to gaze at these ancient siblings, whose arguments had become inconsequential many years before.

I asked her if she thought siblings got along in ancient Hawaii,

"Most likely not," she replied with a sigh.

Before long, it was our final morning at Kona Village, and our last day in Hawaii. With a few spare hours ahead, we requested Imonen to guide us around the headland using an outrigger canoe. It felt like ages since our initial paddle at Mauna Lani; so many events had occurred since then. As we glided beneath the palm-fringed cliffs of Ka‘upulehu, we passed one or two small black-sand bays. Every now and again, Imonen would call out "Hut-Hooo" to indicate when it was time to change sides. Suddenly, we heard something unusual. "Look— at 11 o'clock!"

A group consisting of roughly 100 spinner dolphins was making its way toward us, with their gleaming dorsal fins hardly noticeable against the wave tops. Soon enough, they surrounded us, gliding effortlessly through the water nearly without sound, only an occasional bottle-nosed one becoming visible along with the odd eye. These creatures sped past incredibly fast; before long, about a minute later, they had mostly vanished out of sight.

Imonen turned the canoe around; we needed to head back. And this time he didn’t have to tell us how — we already knew. We picked up our oars and rowed toward the shore, all paddling together.

Oahu

The Royal Hawaiian

A iconic choice at Waikiki Beach — belonging to Marriott’s Luxury Collection — this charming pink art deco hotel boasts beautiful gardens, picturesque vistas, and a prime spot.

Pearl Harbor National Memorial

If you're in Honolulu, visiting this World War II memorial, which has since become a national park, is essential. People move around the extensive grounds via timed shuttle buses, and the location can get crowded, so make certain to set aside multiple hours for your exploration.

Hawaii Island

Kona-Kohala Coast

Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort

Following its devastation by a tsunami in 2011, this renowned establishment relaunched in 2023. The updated version with 150 rooms boasts enhanced luxury, yet it retains the casual charm of its predecessor.

Mauna Lani, part of the Auberge Resorts Collection

Since joining the Auberge Resorts Collection in 2020, this iconic resort on the Kohala Coast boasts over 300 chic rooms and suites, three swimming pools, and a Goop store, along with an array of family-oriented facilities and activities.

Waimea

The Fish and the Pig

When you're heading up to Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, be sure to pull over at this hidden gem of a barbecue place favored by locals for a midday meal. Their pulled-pork sandwich ranks among the top dishes I enjoyed during my time in Hawaii.

Volcano

Volcanic Rainforest Getaway Inn & Bistro

A group of traditional Japanese-style cottages equipped with kitchen facilities and open-air hot spring baths can be found in the town of Volcano. These accommodations are just a 10-minute drive away from the entrance to the park.

Aunt Pon's Thai Food Truck

Genuine Thai cuisine is offered in large servings from a mobile cart located in the parking area of Volcano’s Cooper Center.

Hilo

The Booch Bar Hilo

At this laid-back place on Keawe Street, you can enjoy truly tasty dishes that largely focus on plants.

Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden

It’s worthwhile taking the 45-minute diversion from Volcanoes to explore this stunning garden set among the cliffs and waterfalls of the Hamakua Coast.

Sig Zane

The top-notch Hawaiian shirts at this stylish Hilo store serve as desirable mementos.

A version of this story was initially published in the November 2024 edition of Travel + Leisure Under the Title "The Most Unpredictable Island" ."

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Read the initial article on Travel & Leisure .