How This Aspen Hotel Charms Ski Bums, Billionaires, and History Buffs Alike: Preserving Its Gilded Age Charm

In the Time Capsule series, we highlight a beloved restaurant, hotel, or landmark that has remained largely unchanged over time. This week, our focus is on Hotel Jerome in Aspen, Colorado.

THEN

In 1889, upon the inaugural welcome of guests at the Hotel Jerome, Aspen was thriving as a bustling mining community. Over two hundred attendees, including individuals from as distant as Paris, participated in an opening celebration the evening prior to Thanksgiving, which took place within the confines of the town’s sole dance hall.

Although most structures in American mining towns were typically simple log cabins or hastily built false-fronted stores, the Jerome adopted an architectural approach reminiscent of the Gilded Age rather than the typical Wild West aesthetic. Featuring a façade made from red bricks and sandstone, along with ornate Victorian interiors, this impressive building contained 92 rooms and 15 bathrooms equipped with both hot and cold running water. Additionally, it included amenities like a billiards room and a barber shop. Notably, it was among the earliest constructions west of the Mississippi River to be outfitted with electric lighting.

However, this enthusiasm was short-lived. Just 11 months after opening, Jerome B. Wheeler, who was the heir to Macy’s fortune and owned the hotel, decided to sell the property. In 1893, when Congress abolished the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, the value of silver crashed. This led both the town and the structure into a state of deterioration.

During the 1940s, Chicago businessman Walter Paepcke along with his spouse Elizabeth stumbled upon the nearly abandoned town. They refurbished the dilapidated hotel, aiming to transform Aspen into a contemporary skiing and cultural destination. Their restored accommodations attracted not only renowned skiers but also celebrities such as Gary Cooper and Lana Turner. Later, in the late 1960s, when the pioneering figure of gonzo journalism, Hunter S. Thompson, famously campaigned for sheriff, he utilized Jerome’s bar as his makeshift campaign headquarters.

NOW

Even after decades of dormancy, numerous original features of this grand old lady—the likes of an approximately 1889 call board and a massive carved oak staircase—still stand impressively intact.

In 1946, the hotel underwent renovations that shifted the iconic J-Bar from one end of the lobby to the opposite side. Over time, the atmosphere within took on a stronger "cowboy chic" feel rather than maintaining its original Victorian ambiance. However, nothing else in town captures the true essence of "Old Aspen" quite like sitting at the bar for a cold drink.

In 2012, significant changes occurred following the takeover by the Auberge Resorts Collection. Despite being newly managed, the guest rooms exude historical authenticity through their elegant leather furnishings. The property offers various amenities such as a cozy spa and an exclusive dining experience showcasing refined Colorado dishes prepared by a series of renowned chefs who frequently change roles.

However, the feature that likely draws the most visitors could very well be the chic Living Room lounge. Located adjacent to the lobby, this venue stands out as one of Aspen’s top locations for after-ski activities and people-watching.

The real-estate boom has replaced the silver trade, and billionaires, the mining barons. But the Jerome remains a palimpsest: a place to revel in the luxuries of modern Aspen and the best of its past. Says general manager Patrick Davila, “Nothing can replicate the stories that have happened inside these walls.”

The Après Way

You don’t require a lift ticket to partake in ' après ski.' Below are some of the area’s iconic spots for socializing.

Aspen has undergone significant transformations through the years, yet you can still get a sense of its various epochs at the bustling eateries and bars scattered throughout the city.

Located within the historic Aspen Times building dating back to 1904 and currently part of the Hotel Jerome, the stylish speakeasy called Bad Harriet offers an excellent Margarita along with omakase sushi crafted by Chef Kei Yoshino.

In 1988, Little Nell debuted as Aspen's premier luxury hotel with direct access for skiing enthusiasts. The property stands where a casual spot for skiers used to be located. It now features three trendy venues which have replaced the former ambiance. Enjoy an Aperol spritz on the sunlit terrace of one such venue, Ajax Tavern, situated right below the mountain's ski runs.

In 1998, celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa launched his namesake restaurant, Matsuhisa Aspen, within a restored mining-period residence. Closeby, you can find The White House Tavern, known for its iconic burgers and sandwiches. Additionally, the gastropub Aspen Public House provides handcrafted cocktails on the impressive first level of the historic Wheeler Opera House, which dates back to 1889.

Eager to get away from the bustling downtown area? Head straight to the Aspen Meadows Resort, an updated iconic spot next to the Roaring Fork River known for its contemporary Bauhaus architecture and breathtaking views of the mountains. Show off your savvy moves by trying some caviar bumps along with handcrafted martinis at their newly opened West End Social during après-ski time, and make sure you leave space for dinner.

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