Abandoned Mansions in Indian Town Reflect Its Lavish Past

The dust-covered road heading towards Sidhpur, located in the west, stretches out ahead. India’s Through Gujarat’s arid terrain, beside small eateries along the road and amidst slow-moving camels, one finds few indications of the historical treasures awaiting in the town ahead.

At the center of Sidhpur sits a lane adorned with majestic three- and four-story residences called "havelis," painted in soft, once-vibrant hues ranging from seafoam green to blush pink. Locally referred to as Paris Galli or Paris Street, this thoroughfare gives travelers the impression they've stepped into an Old World European town featuring impressive Neoclassical designs alongside a blend of Art Deco elements, Baroque touches, and distinctive Indo-European fusion aesthetics.

Sidhpur is just under a three-hour drive from Gujarat’s capital city, Ahmedabad, yet it manages to stay off the beaten path for tourists and admirers of architecture alike. During my visit, most of the area surrounding Paris Galli seemed empty, with only sporadic pedestrians dressed in the recognizable brightly colored headscarves and golden-white turbans typical of the Dawoodi Bohras—a Shia Islamic community that has inhabited this region of Western India since the 11th century.

The Bohra people form a tightly knit merchant group that initially emerged in Egypt before dispersing across North Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia for commerce involving spices, gemstones, and fragrances. Later, the leadership center of this religious group shifted from Yemen to Sidhpar, where adherents demonstrated their affluence and success through constructing numerous lavish homes during the early part of the 1900s. Such residential areas were referred to as Bohrawads or Vohrawads; homeowners competed with each other using elaborate chandeliers, imported Belgian glassware, vintage furnishings, or by organizing extravagant banquets.

The tight trade relationships that the community had with Europe might have shaped their sense of design and aesthetics. At that time, the local ruler, Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, showed a particular preference for European-style buildings. Influenced by the ideas of Scottish town planner Patrick Geddes—who resided in India from 1914 to 1924—Sayajirao established clear guidelines which led to remarkably consistent street views, as noted by Zoyab A. Kadi, an architect hailing from Sidhpur.

The Bohra community provided assistance to other groups during a famine in the early 1900s, and in response, the Maharaja of Baroda gave them some land because they needed more homes," he explained. "On this land, they began constructing those impressive buildings, which had to follow stringent urban development guidelines.

Predominantly found in the Najampura district, home to Paris Galli, these elongated wooden structures also incorporate elements of plaster and brick. Their design includes pitched rooftops, pillars, and columns, along with intricately carved entryways and decorative projecting "jharokhas" that jut out at the facade's front. Typically elevated above ground level, these homes include a primary residential area situated atop a basement; stepped platforms known as "otlas," which functioned similarly to porches, served historically as communal gathering spots. Additionally, fanciful crests showcasing family names or initials in English can frequently be seen adorning the exteriors of these houses.

The row houses, constructed in an ordered series, display harmony alongside variety," stated conservation architect Ashish Trambadia from Ahmedabad during a telephone conversation. "Although every home boasts its own distinct color palette, individualized plaster decorations, and unique grille designs; the exact positioning of their bases, rooftops, and flooring lent these lanes a distinctive charm.

Unique design

India-based photographer Sebastian Cortés captured images of the town and its residents in his photo series " Sidhpur: Present Times Past_times The pictures convey a sense of sadness, ranging from the once-grand but now worn-down condition of the mansion’s insides to the women depicted looking out through windows while performing domestic tasks.

I found inspiration in the merchant communities of India... who showcased their prosperity in the most beautiful ways," stated Cortés during a telephone interview. "It represented inverted colonialism: The Bohras journeyed across the globe to places such as Myanmar, Thailand, Yemen, and Ethiopia, absorbing different influences before blending them with their own practices and traditions, employing local craftsmen to craft something extraordinary.

Kadi has also drawn international focus to these dwellings through her authorship of three books on the town: "Sidhpur and Its Dawoodi Bohra Residences," "The Vohrawaads of Sidhpur," and "The Emergence and Demise of a Style."

“A quick look might make you think this streetscape has a European feel, but upon closer inspection, you'll notice the use of wood as a construction material influenced by Gujarati traditions. The capitals atop columns or pilasters blend different styles rather than adhering strictly to either Corinthian or Doric designs; they’re hybrids reflecting multiple cultural impacts,” explained Kadi, who currently leads an architecture company based in Chennai. “These residences were crafted with female residents’ seclusion in mind since many males worked overseas earning income. Additionally, these structures are well-adapted for local climatic conditions through their design elements and choice of materials.”

The names of the houses, such as Zainab Mansion and Kagalwala Manor, frequently pay homage to their former inhabitants. Among them are notable examples like the Zaveri residence—famous for its 365 windows—which is now darkened by grime, with its impressive pillars and intricate geometric designs badly needing repair. Another standout is the Teen Khuniya, also referred to as the Three-Cornered House, distinguished by its unique triangular design.

As mentioned by local resident and tour guide Insiya Bangalorewalla, the houses generally consisted of five distinct areas: the "dehli" (which serves as a utility space), the "chowk" (an open-to-sky central courtyard containing the kitchen and bathroom, now equipped with vents through grills for better air circulation), an external "pursaal" (used for various activities like living and eating), an internal "pursaal" (the most comfortable room due to cooler temperatures, often utilized as a sleeping chamber), and the orda (considered the finest room in the home, lavishly furnished and reserved for use by the household’s patriarch).

"Thanks to a covering known as the 'furtaal,' from the street you cannot see inside the house, ensuring the privacy of the women," explained Bangalorewalla during a tour through Najampura.

The insides of the houses frequently appeared as lavish spectacles adorned with geometric tiles, friezes, Persian rugs, rich mahogany and rosewood furnishings, hand-painted Belgian mirrors, vintage corner decorations, personal heirlooms, and a distinct marble niche designed specifically for holding water. Water holds significant importance in Islam due to its role in cleansing or sanctifying the dwelling place.

Sidhpur's architecture stands out," explained Kadi, "because the structures influenced by Western concepts and components were designed by Hindu architects but cater to an Islamic lifestyle.

Disappearing heritage

According to official town statistics, there were at least 1,400 of these mansions throughout Sidhpur during the 1970s. However, following India's independence from British rule in 1947, numerous residents of Sidhpur moved abroad or relocated to bigger urban centers within India such as Mumbai and Ahmedabad. As a result, maintenance of the homes was often left to caretakers or family members.

Currently, numerous havelis stand abandoned, neglected and dilapidated, or they're entangled in ownership disputes among heirs. Others have been torn down to accommodate contemporary constructions, their antique elements and wooden structures auctioned off by proprietors. According to official records, less than 400 of Sidhpur’s havelis remain occupied today.

In an effort to preserve the vanishing grand homes, Kadi joined forces with fellow residents of Sidhpur to establish the Sidhpur Heritage Collective in 2024. This organization aims to record the architectural legacy of the town through documentation projects, educational workshops, and curated tours.

Regrettably, there are no heritage protection regulations in India that prohibit the demolition of privately owned homes," explained Kadi. "Additionally, we lack both funding and an organization supporting our efforts for this initiative. Converting these residences into homestays or Airbnb accommodations hasn’t gained traction yet.

(Sidhpur) offers much more than just these grand homes, with a vibrant culinary scene and various places of worship like temples and mosques. It would be ideal if we could preserve the town’s architectural heritage before it vanishes completely. Achieving this requires both public support and financial resources.

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